Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Spot treatment

I picked up a couple of samples of Paula's Choice BHA9 last year and have been using them once in a while. What I like about Paula's Choice hydroxy acid products (in particular, but this is true of all their products) is that they don't contain alcohol. When I was a teenager, I often tried to use salicylic acid (aka beta hydroxy acid or BHA) products, but they all contained alcohol; I ended up with dry, crunchy, red, flaking skin, and often broken capillaries when I used them on thin-skinned areas like across the bridge of my nose. I don't have this problem with alcohol free products, so I've deduced that the alcohol, not the SA, is the problem.

What I don't like about Paula's Choice is the price, the exchange rate, and the international shipping (when there's not a free shipping event on, anyway).

The BHA9 in particular is a pretty simple formulation consisting of propylene glycol (solvent/penetration enhancer), PEG-75, PEG-8 (thickeners), water, salicylic acid (beta hydroxy acid/time-released exfoliant, 9%), glycerin (skin-repairing ingredient), avena sativa (oat) kernel extract (anti-irritant), butylene glycol (slip agent), Boerhavia Diffusa root extract (antioxidant plant extract), Sea Whip extract (soothing plant extract), arginine (amino acid/skin-conditioning agent), polysorbate 20 (stabilizer), and disodium EDTA (chelating agent).

Frankly, the key ingredients are salicylic acid and glycols, which are needed to dissolve the SA. So I mixed about 8% SA with 92% propylene glycol for a bare-bones DIY version costing probably a thousanth of the price. Now I won't be hesitant to use it due to the cost.

By the way, I am aware that 8% SA is well above the 2% recommended usage rate for regular OTC acne treatment; it is also well below the 30% peels that are available for home use (and also include the burning evilness of alcohol). I tested it on my arm before using it on my face. I have now used it multiple times and it has been fine for me. That doesn't mean it will be fine for you; make and use at your own risk!

I use it as a spot treatment. I would never put it all over my face, as I'd be coated in a shiny, sticky slick of propylene glycol.

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