I have learned to start simple now. At least after two semi-fails.
Next surfactant on the to-try list is decyl glucoside. After the stinging I experienced with the caprylyl/capryl glucoside recipe, I stripped this one down to three ingredients: water, surfactant, and preservative. Just distilled water, 1% decyl glucoside, and Optiphen Plus.
Boiled the water, added the surfactant, cooled, added preservative, and mixed.
It foamed and stung when I used it. Boo. I had to rinse my skin after applying this, and it felt stripped, as though I had used a strong-ish rinse-off cleanser. That decyl glucoside is powerful stuff.
At this point I still hadn't put two and two together regarding the Optiphen stinging, I was too taken aback by all the foam!
I'm curious what percentage you used of surfactant used? I'm looking at other options for the peg-6 caprylic/capric glyceride, it's so finicky with cloudiness! Some batches it's clear, others it clouds quite badly.
ReplyDeleteMy tester recipes were all with 1% surfactant.
DeleteDecyl glucoside is too alkaline. It will make your skin irritating. You need to put citric acid to reduce the pH level until it reach 5 or 6.
ReplyDeleteHi there, thanks for your comment. Yes, decyl glucoside can be very alkaline and cause irritation if not buffered. I was sure i checked the pH when I did this experiment, but I didn't write down the result. So I whipped up another smaple of the rotten stuff so I could give you an accurate result: 98% distilled water, 1% decyl glucoside and 1% Optiphen Plus came out to a pH of 6.5 for me with no adjusting. So it should not have been the pH causing the irritation. I figured out later that all of the formulas with Optiphen Plus caused my face to burn, regardless of which surfactant I chose.
DeleteIsn't 6.5 too high of a pH for Optiphen Plus?
DeletePhyscion 8-β-D-glucoside has been studied in research relating to the treatment of the glomerulonephritis. It is the glucoside of Physcion (P398000) which is a natural anthraquinone derivative, Physcion-8-O-β-D-glucopyranoside
ReplyDelete