Monday, January 2, 2017

Anti-aging cream cleanser... a return to the SD problems

Oh hi there. I finally got back into my la-BOR-a-tory (a corner of my unfinished basement) yesterday, and did a bit of alchemizing. I made a cream cleanser... well, I tried. It was a bit of a revisit to the frustrating days of my stearamidopropyl dimethylamine condiotioner experiments.

My recipe was based on one from chemical supplier, Inolex, but I substituted a lot of their feature ingredients for more common equivalents. For example their cationic conditioner is brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine... which, from the name, I assume is made from broccoli seed oil or some other brassica. I used stearamidopropyl dimethylamine because that is what I have and none of my suppliers sell that brassica stuff. I also substituted their emollient ester, dicapryl succinate, with Cromollient SCE, their brassica alcohol fatty acid with cetyl alcohol (they do like their brassicas, don't they?), and their co-emulsifier, glyceryl stearate, with a complete emulsifier I have that is high in glyceryl stearate; it's composed oglyceryl stearate (60%), cetearyl alcohol (25%), and sodium stearoyl lactylate (15%).

The anti-aging part, aside from being a gentle cleanser, is the inclusion of some exfoliating fruit extracts (I used Multifruit BSC from Voyageur), and I guess the salicylic acid. Sal acid is more of an anti-acne ingredient, which is a more immediate problem for me than aging... but it's an exfoliant and pore-improver.

Anyway, it has separated. I think I'm going to take it back down to the lab and dump in some more citric acid, since that is what solved my conditioner woes.

UPDATE: Nope, didn't work. Adding 0.5 g at a time, I added 4 extra grams of citric acid. No thickening occurred. Boo. I suppose I should go back to leaving out the expensive ingredients until my base is stable.

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